She’s expects that since I’ve sold a few baby/toddler quilts online, this shouldn’t be a big deal.  I had to laugh, if only that were true.  But I hope that one of you sweet viewers might fall in love with one of her creations and feel compelled to help out a good cause.  The quilts are listed in my etsy shop and please feel free to email me if you’d like to make your best offer.  I’d love to hear from you.

Rachel at Stitched in Color is also letting me submit them into her Scrap Attack Quilt Along/Flickr Group to support all the scrappiness out there.  In addition, my mom can get a little taste of the quilting online community, which is pretty amazing!  Our generation is certainly lucky to have the internet and talented quilters/bloggers who openly share their latest craft-tastic-ness!  I’m especially thankful since my local sewing community is itty bitty…but I live in rural Hawaii, so I’m not complaining!

Okay, enough already!  Here’s her charity quilt collection in all it’s Hawaiian flavor.  If you’re interested in purchasing, please enter my etsy shop.  Remember, ALL proceeds are donated to charity.

Rainbow Fish

48″ X 59″ Quilt Top

Close Up Detail

Binding

Quilt Back

Big Island Aloha

50″ X 66″ Quilt Top

Close Up Detail

3D Aloha Shirt with Coconut Buttons

Binding & Quilt Back

Honolulu Aloha

50″ X 66″ Quilt Top

Close Up Detail

3D Aloha Shirt with Coconut Buttons

Binding & Quilt Back

Golf  Big Island of Hawaii – Hualālai

54″ X 66 1/2″ Quilt Top

Close Up Detail

Binding & Border

Quilt Back

Golf Big Island of Hawaii – Hapuna

54″ X 66 1/2″ Quilt Top

Close Up Detail

Binding & Border

Quilt Back

Again, the quilts are listed for sale at my etsy shop.  If you’d like to make any of these quilts into a wall hanging, my mama has offered to add a hanging sleeve at no additional charge.  Flat rate shipping will be at an additional charge.

My sincere appreciation for your interest!

♥ Robin & Robin’s Mama

Work/Selling In Progress

While I awaited Lisa’s inspirational book & directions, I decided to make my own messenger bag for Carmen.  Just click the picture for a tutorial.

Making the messenger bag was so fun.  I can’t wait to stitch up some different creations, while making more scraps for my Scrap Attack quilt due late March.  I needed a few purples, red, and oranges, so that’s exactly what I bought.  Well, and a “few” others.  Since I have quite a load of school books myself, I’ll be playing a little hide and seek in the pages of my new book tonight.  Hopefully I’ll find my next project.

Now, onto the fabulous new fabric in my collection.  As usual, I mainly purchased from Hawthorne Threads.  But this time, I also got a few from Bloomerie Fabric’s online shop.  They had killer sale prices and two plum/purple fabrics, which I find so hard to locate.  Overall, great experience.

Chrysalis, Seed Pods in Orange, by Sanae

Outfoxed, Outfoxed in Plum, by Lizzy House

Outfoxed, Foliage in Green, by Lizzy House

High Society Victoria, Purple Blossoms, by Anthology Fabrics

And onto my Hawthorne Threads loot:

Amy Butler, Midwest Modern 1 and 2, Optic Blossom in Linen

Emily Herrick, Going Coastal, Sea Kelp in Gray

Bella Blvd, Sunny Happy Skies, Panda in Yellow

Patricia Bravo, Modernology, Mod Vines in Raspberry

Ann Kelle, Ready, Set, Go Organic, Helicopters in Chocolate

Samantha Walker, Decadence, Pears in White

Suzanne Ultman, Critter Community, Trees and Critters in Bermuda

Ann Kelle, Urban Zoologie Part 2, Bird Houses in Spring

Hoodie, LAmour de la Vie, Aux Champs Elysees in Pink

David Walker, Get Together, Flock of Birds in Grey

Creative Thursday, Meet the Gang, Bird Lattice in Red

Timeless Treasures House Designer, Totally 80s, Mix Tape in Multi

Bella Blvd, Sunny Happy Skies, Floral in Pink

Now comes the hard part; I have to figure out a way to sneak this goodness home without my husband finding out…lol!  You think I’m kidding.  I’m so not!

♥ Robin

]]> http://tiptoetango.com/2012/01/18/bags-fabric-wip/feed/ 6 Robin ♥ photo(19)-1 Messanger Bag 167-1 photo(15)-1 photo(25)-1 photo(23)-1 photo(13)-1 photo(17)-1 photo(16)-1 photo(21)-1 photo(20)-1 photo(22)-1 photo(18)-1 wipwednesdaybutton http://tiptoetango.com/2012/01/16/messenger-bag-tutorial/ http://tiptoetango.com/2012/01/16/messenger-bag-tutorial/#comments Mon, 16 Jan 2012 21:15:33 +0000 Robin ♥ http://tiptoetango.com/?p=1299 ]]>

My step daughter, Carmen, has been waiting and waiting for her messenger bag.  We ended up having some girl time {yes, no boys…yay!} on Saturday, so I/we whipped up a new bag for school.  I spent a little time reviewing online tutorials and found some cute stuff {links at the end}.  I didn’t follow any one design or idea, so here’s what I/we did.  Mind you, Carmen picked out the fabric and overall vibe.  You can customize this bag for any style and age.  I’ll be making myself a grown up version next.  Also, I determined the messenger bag’s measurements by measuring her current backpack, which was 14″ wide X 16″ long.  Simply adjust my directions if you’d like something larger/smaller.  Also, quilting the outer bag, pockets, and eyelet lace trim are completely optional.  There are so many ways to customize a bag, you’ll have to be creative on your own…and that’s what makes it so fun.  That goes for fabric choices too.  Check out this wool messenger bag…oh I love!  So have a little fun with it.

Needed Items:

Bag:

2, 17″ X 15″ Outer Bag Rectangles

2, 17″ X 15″ Inner Bag Rectangles

2, 17″ X 15″ Felt Rectangles

1, Inner Pocket Rectangle

2, Strips of Fusible Interfacing

1, Zipper

2 Elastic Bands (Interior Bag Water Bottle Holder)

1 Button

Flip Top:

1, 15″ X 12″ Outer Flip Top Rectangle

1, 15″ X 12″ Inner Flip Top Rectangle

1, 15″ X 12″ Felt Rectangle

Eyelet Lace/Trim

1, Desired Length of Button Loop Elastic

Strap:

1, 10″ X Desired Length Strap Rectangle

1, 2 1/2″ X Desired Length Felt Strip

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Step 1:

Cut out 2 outer bag rectangles, 2 inner bag rectangles, and 2 felt rectangles: 17″ wide X 15″ long.

{Also pictured is the inner pocket & zipper, we’ll talk about that later}

Step 2:

Putting your inner bag fabric to the side, lay your outer fabric onto the felt.  {If you don’t want to quilt, skip to Step 4 now.}  You can see that I’ve used pins to baste, but you could use safety pins/basting pins.  I was opting for a quicker method and opted out completely for the 2nd round.  I didn’t have a problem since the rectangles are relatively small.  But I have a lot of experience quilting.  If you don’t and are worried about puckering/shifting…baste with basting pins or spray to be safe.

Step 3:

Free motion quilt your outer bag fabric & felt.  You may do this in whatever pattern you prefer.

Step 4:

Place the right sides together and stitch {1/2″ inseam} around 3 sides of your rectangle, leaving the top of the bag open.  If you have fabric tags with your name/logo, don’t forget to set them in place before you stitch.  Please back stitch when you start and end your runs to secure the stitching.

Step 5:

Push the bottom corners of your bag together making a triangle.  Measure 2″ in from the corner and using a ruler, mark a line.  Stitch along this line, back stitching at the start and finish.  Do this to both corners.

Step 6:

1/2″ from the stitched line, trim off the corner & discard.

Step 7:

Turn the bag right side out & set aside.  We’ll be working on the flip top next.

Name/Logo tag.

Step 8:

Cut 1 outer flip top rectangle, 1 inner flip top rectangle, and 1 felt rectangle: 15″ wide X 12″ long.  As in Step 2 & 3, set aside the inner flip top rectangle.  Place the outer flip top rectangle on the felt rectangle, baste {if you prefer}, and quilt {if desired}.  Skip to Step 10 if you don’t want to quilt.

Step 9:

Free motion quilt your outer flip top fabric & felt.  You may do this in whatever pattern you prefer.

Step 10:

Using any desired radius {use a cup or bowl}, mark a curve around the 2 bottom corners.  Using scissors, cut along your marked curve.  You’ll be trimming your inner flip top rectangle in the exact same way, so it’s a good idea to layer them and cut all at one time.  Again, after cutting rounded corners, set aside your inner flip top fabric rectangle.  If don’t want to add eyelet lace or trimming, skip to Step 13.

Step 11:

Pin your eyelet lace/trimming right side facing right side of fabric.  Leave a little extra on both ends.  Baste stitch 1/4″ in from the raw edge.

Step 12:

It’s very easy to fudge up the eyelet lace corners during Step 13, so I like to pin them down to make sure they don’t budge while I’m sewing.  If you pin along the bottom of the lace, you don’t run the risk of sewing over the pins.

Step 13:

Lay the inner flip top fabric rectangle, with rounded corners, on the outer flip top with right sides facing each other.  Pin in place.  If you plan on using a button closure, look ahead to Step 15.  There you will see a rounded elastic loop.  If you plan on this technique or any other type of loop, you’ll need to secure it in place now.  Stitch in 1/2″ from the raw edge around the flip top, leaving the top open.  Please back stitch at beginning and end, also back stitch a few times were you’ve secured a loop if applicable.  Stitch slowly around the curved corners for the best results.

Step 14:

Cut slits around the 2 bottom corners.  Be careful not to cut into your stitching.

Step 15:

Turn the flip top right side out and iron flat.  Stitch in 1/2″ from the eyelet lace as shown, leaving the top open.  Please back stitch at beginning and end.  Stitch slowly around the curved corners for best results.  Place the flip top to the side.  We’ll be working on the strap next.

Step 16:

There are certainly ways to make the strap adjustable, but this bag is for my 7 year old; she didn’t want to bother with that.  Therefore, the strap’s length will be dependent on the individual using the bag.  You will cut the width at 10″.  You’ll also need a 2 1/2″ strip of felt X length of strap.

Step 17:

Placing the 2 1/2″ felt strip aside, iron the 10″ strap in half.  Open, and fold both sides in towards the center crease.  Iron again.

Step 18:

Open one flap and insert the 2 1/2″ felt strip.  Fold the flap over.  Now, fold the strip in half so that you have 2 1/2″ of width.  I forgot to take a picture of the next step, darn!  You’ll need to pin along the open edge matching up the edges neatly.  Then, stitch along the opened edge, closing it up.  I chose to add additional lines of stitching for added interest.  Skip to Step 19 for a visual.

Step 19:

It’s time to pin your exterior bag, flip top, and strap together…wow, it’s looking like a bag now!  Match the center of the strap to the seam running up the side of the bag and pin in place as shown.  Do this to the other side, making sure the strap isn’t twisted.  Before you pin on your flip top, make sure you take note of which direction your name/logo tag is facing.  That will determine which side your flip top will go.  Now pin your flip top to the exterior of the bag, right sides facing each other and pin.  The edge of the flip top and straps should be nearly touching on both sides, but not overlapping.  If you have eyelet lace, make sure it is pinned to the outside of the strap and not stuck underneath.

Step 20:

Baste in 1/4″ from the raw edge to secure, trim any excess lace, and place aside.  We’ll be working on the inner bag next.

Step 21:

Ready for the inner pocket?  If not, please skip to Step 25.  You’ll need 2 strips of fusible interfacing that is a bit longer and wider than your zipper.  I’m using a 12″ zipper that I cut down to 10-11″.  However, use any size you prefer.  The pocket can also be any size.  Just make sure it fits within the inner bag rectangle and that your pocket and zipper size are compatible.  I used the left over scraps from my exterior fabric for my pocket.  Just cut a rectangle in the size your desire.  You’ll be flipping it up in half, so keep that in mind.  Now take the strips of fusible interfacing and iron one to the wrong side of your pocket material and the other to the wrong side of your inner bag rectangle.  The interfacing should end up lining up in the same place when you lay/face the pocket material and inner bag material together, right sides facing each other.  Now, sketch a rectangle.  The length will be determined by your zipper.  If your zipper is really long, don’t worry about it {See Step 23}.  You can trim it down to your desired length.  The sketched rectangle width is just shy of 1/2″.

Step 22:

Stitch along your rectangle.  Again, always back stitch at beginning and end.  Note, do not sew beyond your rectangle, that will screw you up!  Cut a slit down the middle and veer off into both corners as shown.

Step 23:

Stuff your pocket material through the slit and fidget with the opening a bit until you get it nice and neat.  Iron in place.  Place you zipper within the rectangle you’ve created and stitch in place.  Remember to back stitch at the start and finish.  After you’ve completed this, trim off any extra length of your zipper, if necessary.

Rear View

Step 24:

Flip up your pocket and sew around the 3 sides {1/2″ inseam} to close.  Please move the inner bag rectangle out of the way and do not stitch through it.

Step 25:

Repeat Steps 4-7 to complete the inner bag.  If you would like water bottle elastic loops, secure them in place during Step 4, prior to stitching the 3 sides.  Note: Leave about a 4″ opening along the bottom.  You’ll be pulling the outer bag through this space, so don’t forget {See Step 27}!

Step 26:

With the inner bag inside out, place your outer bag inside, with right sides facing each other.  Stuff the straps down and out of the way.  Make sure the seam running up along the sides of the both the inner and outer bag are lined up and pin into place.  Sew around the raw edge {1/2″ inseam}, back stitching at start and finish.  Important, back stitch a few times over the straps for extra strength too.

Step 27:

Imagine lifting up the bag as if the outer bag, which is stuffed in the the inner bag, was liquid and it simply drained out the 4″ opening.  So, gently pull the outer bag through the opening.  Stuff the inner bag into the outer bag and make sure everything looks good.  If so, close up the 4″ opening by hand or machine.

Test the elastic loops.  Adjust is necessary, before sewing up the 4″ opening.

Step 28:

Sew your button into place making sure not to catch the inner liner.

By golly, I do believe you are done!

Do let me know if anything is unclear or if you need some extra guidance!

♥ Robin

Tutorials I viewed for inspiration:

Obsessive Crafting Disorder

Fishsticks Designs

Between the lines

mmmcrafts

Pocket Zipper Tutorial

]]> http://tiptoetango.com/2012/01/16/messenger-bag-tutorial/feed/ 2 Robin ♥ Messenger Bag 167-1 Messenger Bag 098-1 Messenger Bag 100-1 Messenger Bag 105-1 Messenger Bag 108-1 Messenger Bag 110-1 Messenger Bag 112-1 Messenger Bag 113-1 Messenger Bag 125-1 Messenger Bag 117-1 Messenger Bag 121-1 Messenger Bag 122-1 Messenger Bag 123-1 Messenger Bag 127-1 Messenger Bag 128-1 Messenger Bag 129-1 Messenger Bag 130-1 Messenger Bag 131-1 Messenger Bag 132-1 Messenger Bag 138-1 Messenger Bag 139-1 Messenger Bag 141-1 Messenger Bag 145-1 Messenger Bag 146-1 Messenger Bag 147-1 Messenger Bag 148-1 Messenger Bag 149-1 Messenger Bag 150-1 Messenger Bag 152-1 Messenger Bag 153-1 Messenger Bag 154-1 Messenger Bag 169-1 Messenger Bag 156-1 Messenger Bag 167-1 http://tiptoetango.com/2012/01/13/fabric-labels/ http://tiptoetango.com/2012/01/13/fabric-labels/#comments Fri, 13 Jan 2012 23:40:52 +0000 Robin ♥ http://tiptoetango.com/?p=1293 ]]> My new satin fabric labels are here, yay!  I was SO OVER my green grass theme.  This time, I decided to veer away from my grown-up gender neutral-ness and have some fun.  Well, a little anyway.  I decided to pitch the grass and add in a boy & girl theme.  At some point I should really consider getting a graphic designer and logo, but until then…I’ll just have some font fun!  This is my second order from Jennifer Jewels and I couldn’t be happier.  Therefore, I highly recommend you give her a shot, if you feel so inclined.  Click her card below for a quick ride to her etsy shop.

My New Labels

Gender Neutral ~ Boy ~ Girl

{This go around, I had enough common sense to have her raise up the font, rather than centering, to accommodate a 1/4″- 1/2″ inseam}

It’ll be fun to try them out this weekend when I make Carmen’s messenger bag.  Tutorial to follow!  Can you guess what label she picked?

Kona Cotton – Bright Pink

Michael Miller – Ta-Dot {This particular color seems to be out of circulation}

Michael Miller – Giraffe Love in Pink

♥ Robin

Last year, I was excited to participate in do. Good Stitches {a charity bee}.  One particular month, Elizabeth of Oh, Fransson was the quilt designer and I was lucky enough to be a stitcher.  I fell madly in love with her mod-mosaic quilt blocks and had fun creating two of my own to contribute.

Do you see where I’m going with this?  Oh yessiree, I’m ecstatic to make my very own for our living room display.  This will be quite a bit of work, but I’m in no rush.  Rachel at Stitched in Color is hosting a Scrap Attack Quilt Along and I think this will be a good opportunity to hold myself accountable for a completion date at the end of March 2012.  I’ve never needed help keeping motivated, but it will still be fun to be part of a scrapping community.  Speaking of scraps, I’ll be using various fabrics from my 2011 quilt orders and a few other projects.  If you’ve ordered a quilt from me, you’ll probably spy your quilt scraps.  And since most of my quilt orders are from sweet friends, this will end up being a sentimental quilt.

Luckily, I’ve been hording my scraps, in desired colors, just for this project. Unfortunately, I don’t have enough scraps for a queen size quilt , so I’ll cut into my stash.  And since I always order just a little extra to stash away for my personal projects, I should have enough.

There’s a particular piece of artwork above our television that I love.  I’m pulling all the same colors from my scraps and their larger counterparts that are stashed away.  I’m going matchy-matchy, which I normally hate.  However, since it’s a mosaic design with multiple contrasting colors, I think I’ll love it.  To be sure before I pour a lot of hard work into a large quilt, I did a sample square.  And baby, I think I’m in love.

Love is a funny thing.  Sometimes you just know it’s the one.  And sometimes you “think” you know it’s the one, but then it’s not.  Do you know what I mean?  So I turned this mod-mosaic square into a pillow and will hang out with it for a while to be sure.  If I keep stealing glimpses from it, then I’ll proceed.  If not, I’ll keep searching for another scrappy design.  I’m 99.9% sure this is it!

Artwork & Coordinating Fabric

Fabric Scraps from Past Projects

{Larger Stash Pictured Above}

Scrappy – Mod – Mosaic Pillow

Imagine this square as a queen size quilt.  Hard work?  Absolutely!  Worth it?  I think, oh yes!  And onto some super-duper cuteness, we got a puppy!  She’s a golden retriever mix.  And do you notice she’s the same color as my flooring?  So on purpose!  Wow, I did not realize a new puppy would be such hard work.  I’m like seriously exhausted!  We are house/crate training her.  We’ve been very diligent and consistent with her training {thanks to inspiration from Cesar Millan}.  Surprisingly, she has learned so much in just 5 short days.  Luckily, I am taking her to work with me and hopefully that will lend to a very sociable and obedient dog.  At least that’s the plan.

Our girl, Kona ♥

♥ Robin

Yahoo, I finished just in time to wrap this “quilt of awesomeness” and stick it under our Christmas tree for Cheyenne.  Unfortunately, I didn’t get the decorative pillow done.  Luckily, he didn’t seem to notice or care for that matter.  I’ll get the pillow done in the next few days.  I’m quite happy with this quilt.  Actually, it’s pretty bad ass.  Thanks to Elizabeth, I’m pretty popular with my son over this quilt.  I was hoping she would post her finished version so I could see how she put all her space invader squares together.  Dangit, that didn’t happen.  I was on my own.  Hopefully I did it justice.  I opted for a  Kona Coal background as opposed to Kona Pepper and made the space invaders larger.  Kona Coal is the loveliest shade of grey I’ve ever seen.  I’m slowly converting the boy’s room over to yellow & grey, so this option worked better for me.  Plus, it fulfills my Kona Coal crushing needs.  One regret, I wanted to quilt a techno free motion pattern, but I ran out of time and fell back on my loopy/puzzle look to save time.  I do love the textured look acquired, but wish I would’ve had some extra time to do something different…like this.  Next time.  Regardless, it’s the coolestestest quilt I’ve ever made.  And it’s 726, 3″ squares, holy crud!

Space Invader Quilt

Back: Grey Twin Flat Sheet from Walmart

Space Invader Fabric Binding

Matching Pillowcase: Repurposed pillowcase from Walmart

This one was a blast.  I really loved making this quilt.  Again, thank you Elizabeth for the inspiration.  You are a genius!

♥ R

A few months back, Malia mentioned how much she liked these napkins by Sweet Lulu.  They were priced at $9.00 each, which is fair, but we thought she could make them.  The tricky part is finding that 70′s vintage vibe fabric.  Malia is still hunting down her options.  In the mean time, I’ve put together a tutorial for her {and you} using fabric I have in my stash.  As promised,  here’s the easy steps to making a ruffle napkin .  Can’t wait to see what you come up with Malia!

Ruffle Napkin with Rounded Corners

1. Choose your fabric

~ There are many different ways to go about choosing fabric.  Typically, I am drawn to modern color schemes which showcase contrasting fabric colors.  However, for the vintage vibe, I wanted a monotone color scheme.  Therefore, I chose two different patterns, both using the same colors: Pink, Green, Yellow, Brown, & White.  Also, they are floral prints, which lend to that vintage feel.

   Various Monotone Colors

Contrasting Colors

2. Cut 2 Squares

~ For simplicity sake, I cut my squares at 12 1/2″ square using my 12 1/2″ square ruler.  However, feel free to use any size square or rectangle you prefer.  If you want to do any fancy schmacy folding techniques, go with a square design.

3. Round the Corners

~ If you prefer square, like Sweet Lulu’s napkin, you may skip this step.  I thought they added extra charm and I’ve got a thing for rounded corners lately.  Notice my photos?

Find any cup or bowl which provides the radius you prefer.

Mark your rounded corner with a fabric pen.

I made the error of doing one at a time.  That was silly of me.  You can certainly lay one on top of the other and cut them at the same time.

4. Cut Ruffle

~ I prefer to not have a seam and exposed fabric on the back of the napkin ruffle, which is different from Sweet Lulu’s napkin.  Thus, you’ll prepare the ruffle much like quilt binding.  Cut 3″ strips.  You’ll need to have enough length to round the perimeter of your square/rectangle + extra for the ruffling effect.  Add on at least one extra strip that will be absorbed when the fabric gets scrunched together to create the ruffle.  If you are planning on a very dramatic ruffle, you can double up.

5. Join Strips of Ruffle Fabric

~Most likely, you’ll be joining at least once.  Here’s how you do it:

Face strips together, pin, and mark a diagonal line.  You’ll be sewing along the purple line seen above.

Back stitch at the start and finish.  Trim off excess fabric leaving 1/4″.

Iron the seam open.

6. Iron Joined Ruffle Strips in Half

7.  Gathering Basting Stitch/Long Stitch 1/4″ Along Raw Side of Ruffle Strip

~ Program your machine to sew a long stitch aka gathering basting stitch along the raw edge of your ruffle strip.  This will create a loose stitch, which allows you to pull on the back bobbin thread and scrunch the fabric together to create a ruffle.  Again, scrunch as tight or as loose as you like to create the look you are after.  Please make sure you place the ruffle along your square napkin’s edge to make sure you have enough before you start to pin.  If you find you are short, pull out the long stitches, join another strip, long stitch along the raw edge again, and scrunch one more time.  Hopefully you have enough.

Gathering Basting Stitch

Scrunched Ruffle

8. Pin Ruffle Along the Napkin’s Edge, Matching Raw Edges

~ Napkin is right side up.

Use extra pins as you round the corner.

9. Sew 1/4″ in from the Raw Edge

Leave about a 2″ opening with extra fabric on both ends.  {This is necessary to join to ruffle ends together}

10. Join Ruffle Ends

Place a pin where to two ends meet.  Make sure the ruffle lays flat and there aren’t any puckers.

Stitch together the ruffle edges directly where your pin lies.  Make sure to back stitch at the start and finish.  Trim off the excess fabric leaving 1/4″ from the seam.  Surge or zigzag stitch along the raw edge.  Finish by sewing down the remainder of the ruffle to the base of the napkin, 1/4″ in.

11. Pin the Napkin Top onto the Napkin Base

~ Napkin base and top will have right sides facing each other.  You may find that the top now seems larger than the base, as if the base shrunk.  This is due to sewing on the ruffle, but it has not.  Focus on pinning the four corners together first.  Then, lightly stretch along each side and pin along.  If you find that you need to stretch to avoid puckering, make sure you tug as you sew around as well.

12. Sew 1/2″ Along the Edge, Leaving 1 1/2″ Opening

~ Please back stitch at start and end or your stitches will fall out as you pull the napkin right side out.

13. Pull the Napkin Right Side Out Through the 1 1/2″ Opening, and Hand Sew Shut.

~ You can certainly machine stitch the 1 1/2″ opening shut.  However, I didn’t want to see any stitches and hand sewing 1 1/2″ is quick.  You many also want to iron out the wrinkles from cramming the napkin through that tiny hole.

Now do that again and again until you have all the napkins you need.

Malia, I tried to capture every single step for you.  Please let me know if you have any questions or need additional help as you get started.  Again, excited to see what you create!  Xxo

♥ R

]]> http://tiptoetango.com/2011/12/28/ruffle-napkin-tutorial/feed/ 4 Robin ♥ 233694668133548581_K5vpjtYd_c Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 133-2 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 037-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 040-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 047-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 058-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 059-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 062-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 048-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 050-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 051-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 052-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 053-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 069-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 075-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 077-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 079-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 082-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 086-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 089-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 090-1 Space Invader Quilt & Ruffle Napkin 103-1 http://tiptoetango.com/2011/12/18/wonky-star-christmas-pillow/ http://tiptoetango.com/2011/12/18/wonky-star-christmas-pillow/#comments Mon, 19 Dec 2011 01:00:23 +0000 Robin ♥ http://tiptoetango.com/?p=1231 ]]> We needed more storage for the boy’s board games, so I sifted through our hall closet and got rid of pillows, blankets, and anything we weren’t using.  I found a pillow insert that I thought would be perfect for a Wonky Star Christmas Pillow.  It measured 19″ X 13″.  So, my quilted pillow top is 20″ X 14″.  I prefer to stitched the front & back of the pillow together with a 1/2″ inseam  for added strength.  That’s why I’ve added an inch as opposed to 1/2″.  The directions for the wonky star are here.

20″ X 14″ Quilted Pillow Top

20″ X 14″ Overlapped Back

When you sew the back panels onto the quilted top, you’ll have them facing each other.  You can see that I don’t fold the individual panels completely over to one side, this is to save fabric.  Just surge the unfinished edge and call it a day.  Sew the two overlapped panels on with a 1/2″ inseam.  Then, surge the edges to prevent fraying.  If you don’t have a surger, zig-zag stitch as I have.  Carefully, trim off the four corners.  Flip over and hope your pillow insert fits!

Wonky Star Christmas Pillow

Chubby

I’m being stalked today.  Apparently, Chubby wants to be photographed too!

Happy Stitching All!

♥ R

Fabric Picks & Dingle Berries

{Decided to switch to eyelet lace post picture}

Again, there is no one way to make fabric selections.  You may want to do everything in one color or many.  I personally like contrast, while tying colors together.

24 Crayola Crayons

I am making a one size fits all for children over 5 years old.  I would recommend using 12 crayons if you are sewing for a toddler.  If you would like to downsize my directions using only 12 crayons, cut my measurements in half.

Stitching Base, Pocket, & Lace Together

1. Cut 27″ X 6″ rectangle for base {pink}

2. Cut 27″ X 3″ rectangle for pocket {snails}.  If you don’t want to add trim {above the sail print} as I have, please cut height at 5″.

3. Both prints will be wrong side up, however lace will be right side up.  Pin and stitch in 1/2″.

{Note: I like to leave my lace and pocket over sized by 1/2″ or so on either side and then trim when I’m finished. I.E. Pocket 28″ rather than 27″ as noted above.}

Iron Press & Stitch

You’ll want to stitch 1/2″ in along the lace, lower top of pocket.

Add Contrasting Trim on the Pocket

I did not capture each step because you can do this however you choose.  My plan was to fold the trim over in half, so it is cut at 2 1/2″ in height.  I attach the 2 1/2″ wide strip to the pocket strip, sewing in at 1/4″.  I then surge the other edge, fold it in half towards the back, ending where it covers the stitching, iron, and stitch down 1/4″ from the snail print.  For added detail, I stitched along the top of the trim 1/4″ in as well.  Do not sew through the base pink fabric.

Stitch 24 Individual Pockets

Spaced 1″ apart, sew 24 openings.  Start dead center.  To do this fold your apron in half and iron.  Unfold and use the crease as a guide.  Then, stitch 12 pockets to the left and right.  Important, back stitch at beginning and end of your line to secure the stitch and prevent unraveling.  I recommend doing this anytime you are sewing, but especially for this portion.  Also, stitch with the opening of the pockets facing your chest.  This will prevent puckering.  You’ll end up with 1 1/2″ of fabric on either ends once your 24 pockets are stitched.   Trim off any excess fabric {if you prefer wiggle room like myself} and surge the edges.  Fold in 1/2″ and iron press.  Fold over 1 more time, another 1/2″ and iron press again.  Pin in place and stitch down to finish off the sides.  Again, this is one of those areas where you may prefer a different technique.  If you prefer a different method, make sure you take into consideration the overall base and pocket widths, and make any necessary adjustments.

Gathered Waist Band

Sew a line of loose stitches across the top of your {pink} base fabric where you’ll be attaching a waistband.  Make sure to leave yourself excess thread at the start and finish.  Note, do not back stitch!  Next, pull the bobbin thread {back} on both sides simultaneously to tighten and gather the fabric at the top.  It’s up to you how gathered you’d like it.  I didn’t use any set width measurement.  Next, cut your waist band fabric.  I planned to fold mine in half, so I cut a strip at 6″ in height.  The length will be determined by your little ones waist, but go long.  I think extra length is perfect for the one size fits all concept and will accommodate a growing child.  Prior to pinning on the strip, find the center to the apron and waist band.  Again, you can do this by folding in half, ironing, and using the center crease.  Match up the two creases and pin.  Pin along the entire length of the apron top and stitch together with a 1/2″ inseam.  Fold over the opposite edge of the waist band 1/2″ and iron press.  Fold the waist band in half, towards the back, and cover the stitches.  Iron press.  Pin in place.  Turn to the top and stitch 1/4″ in from the {pink} base fabric, as seen in this picture.  You’ll do this the entire length of the waistband, which will attach both sides of the waist band together.  As added detail, I stitched another line across the top of the waist band at 1/4″ in to match the bottom {not pictured}.  Close up your ends and you are done!

Finished Crayon Apron

I think Carmen is going to be thrilled, especially when she sees the custom made easel daddy built to go with her apron.  It’s going to be an artsy sort of Christmas.

Again, please remember this isn’t a full-scale tutorial.  It’s simply a guide and you’ll need to use your sewing skills and a bit of imagination to get through it.  However, FUN PROJECT!  Plus, it’s easy…promise!

Miraculously, my holiday gifts are being accomplished in a timely fashion.  Gosh, I’m feeling ahead of the game.  Better enjoy it while it lasts.  Surely, I’m about to lose it…who am I forgetting?

♥ R

Ps.  If you care to give this project a whirl & you get hung up, let me know!  I’ll do my best to assist!

New & Improved Isaac

{Double Button Eyes with Chocolate Brown Center}

Luke’s Eyes are Now Centered

Cheyenne’s X Eyes from Playing Video Games Too Long

Owlette Bottoms

1/4″ Plywood Rounds

{Nothing fancy, my hubby used various drill bits and no sanding necessary}

Fabric Cover

Hand Stitch in Center

The Correa Owlettes

{COMPLETED}

That was fun.  Off to the next project…

♥ R